St Jean --> Orisson (8 km)

In the morning at 6:15, we were woken by Enya-style chant singing and a French, very bread-centric breakfast. In no time--after drinking water and repeatedly packing and repacking our heavy possessions--it was time to leave Beilari and begin our first day on The Way. 

After visiting the church, Lauren and I met up with Valerie (later referred to asBilbo) a chipper Irish pilgrim-hippy writing a book on the Camino. She is a small, 62 year old ball of spirit. Bossy, sassy and always ready to go, she calls people "dote-y-dotes" and her knees "dicky" and told us about how all molecules are alive even in Inanimate objects and that she was going to name her daughter Robyn except it was too English so she named her Finiverre instead. 

      With excessive skill, we were able to turn the 3 hour hike into 5 by eating lunch in Hunto (a little crest in the road overlooking the French valley) and stopping to admire vista after amazing vista.

We saw one very attractive Italian man and another Australian one. Since the three of us clear thought we embodied the entire United Nations, as the Australian created the hill where Lauren, Bilbo and I were taking our 50th break amongst the sheep, we each greeted him with the first language that came to mind, which turned out to be "hola!" "Bonjour!" "Bonjourno!"

      The Australjan grinned and said, "you speak English, don't you? I heard you down the hill." 

       There was a lovely little yellow bird sitting in the rocks singing as we rose higher as well as sheep and horses grazing by the roadside. We may have also seen a golden eagle soaring on the cool winds over the mountains. 

        An enormous chestnut housed a tiny virgin, and the views only grew more dramatic as we turned at the ridge and clouds started coming in. Absolutely gorgeous rises and valleys spotted with sheep and Basque red roofs (pics and videos coming?)

       Orisson is a single Albergue just off the road with a grand porch and ample bar/restaurant catering to passing pilgrims not lucky enough to get to spend the night there. We checked in and hot our carnet stamped by the petite, black-haired fairy lady who runs it, and briefly reunited with our Australian--oh! You made it!--before all the pilgrims who'd been waiting were shown to the luxurious dorms around back (the party don't start till I walk in). 

      Like at Beilari, we were asked to leave our boots outside, but the rooms here were very nice with huge windows looking out over the mountains and sturdy wooden bunks. The hospitalera gave each of us a coin to use for a 5 minute shower. And in that 5 minutes I managed to forget my soap :(

       Lauren soon discovered her soap had spilled and contaminated her entire bag (what to wash with??) and I took a 3 hour nap as the clouds turned dark and the air became chillier and chillier. When i woke up I had to shower and put on all my clothes so I wouldn't freeze while I journaled and waited for dinner on the terrace. 

        Dinner was even better in Orisson. This lentil soup followed by chicken, macaroni, potatoes al gratin, huge bottles of wine and gateau de Basque. Lots of calories for hungry pilgrims! 

        The end of the day was a wash of preparations. I saved the say translating French over a situation with the dryer! An easy first day in preparation for our arduous trek over the rest of the Pyrenees the next day!