Finisterre

After a day of pampering in Santiago and several hard goodbyes (including, worst of all, Susan and Natalie), we rose early, met Sarah, and boarded a bus to Finisterre (Fin-is-terre, literally the end of the earth).

      Finisterre is the traditional tag-a-long to the Camino, and many pilgrims choose to walk the extra 100 km to reach it as the conclusion to their pilgrimage. In fact, some pilgrims would consider bussing to Finisterre the blasphemous equivalent of eating ones own live young. We considered walking... For about 3 minutes. Lauren and I don't hold with those sorts of pilgrims. The Camino ended for us in front of the cathedral in Santiago, and taking a day to see Finisterre was simply a nice cap on it all. We had the idea that, after rising so early for so long and watching the sun climb behind us, it would be appropriate to see the sun set at last on our long journey from the cliffs of Finisterre, where medieval pilgrims believed the world ended and eternity began.

       For us, though, staring West into the cloudy, oceanic expanse, Finisterre wasn't the end of the world. Because sitting on that cliff face and looking out over the Atlantic, I knew that I was really looking towards home. Approximately 4000 miles away, and about 500 closer than it had been when I began my walk, sat my own country, waiting for my return. Somewhere between where the ocean ended and the sunset began was America and everyone I love.

Even though we still have over a week to enjoy in Spain, our Camino was done. 

The greatest pilgrimage of all is always the journey home.

Santiago

I cannot entirely express the feeling of reaching that illusive, fabled, impossible place called Santiago de Compostela. How many times had Lauren and I dreamed of being there? Using words like "might" and "we'll see" and never truly certain we'd actually make it?

     It was a 20 km walk Friday from our pension in Pedrouzo to Santiago and we flew the whole way like we grew wings in the night. We leapt out of our beds at 4:15 and were on the road by 5. Pitch black walk through dense, eucalyptus forest in a cool drizzle of rain, only a spot of light and our Santiago-senses to guide us. But we weren't alone. Lots of pilgrims with itchy feet rose early that morning. 

       On the way we met Susan and Natalie, long time companions and dear friends we'd only just been reunited with the night before. At breakfast with them I prayed the pilgrims prayer for our group for the last time. At the end, when we asked God to bring us to journey's end and return safely home, I started to cry. Lauren was wiping away tears too, abd susan wrapped me in her arms and cried with me. How many times had we prayed that prayer together? Every time it meant something different. That day it meant a hard won victory at long last. 

       After that I couldn't seem to stop crying, as my wild journey came crashing towards its conclusion. I've never felt so fast as I did walking through the cold rain to Santiago, not willing to stop long enough to put on my rain jacket. I didn't want it. The cold drops felt amazing. And the rain kept the Tourogrinos (tour bus pilgrims) from clogging the roads. Lauren and I walked alone in blissful, tearful quiet until at last the city came into view. 

          It was a long time getting into the city, and the cathedral didn't show itself until the very end. I was terrified to see it, and ecstatic. People in the streets must've thought we were crazy, outstripping all the other walkers, crying and grinning histerically as we raced for the church. What a journey! And an end visible before us at long last. 

          We descended into a tunnel, then rode up just in time to turn a corner and face St James cathedral. Nothing can compare with that feeling. No achievement could ever equal it. Not graduating from college. Not anything. And we were crying all over again, hugging and throwing our poles on the cobblestones, gazing up at the face of the church and at other pilgrims around is, smiling and crying with us, nodding and congratulating one another and soaking in one of the greatest moments in a lifetime. Laying down our long carried burdens, plopping down and laughing. Knowing it was all worth it. And then friends everywhere and Sarah who'd been waiting for us and we were swept along in the excitement of it all and a part of a massive community who understood and had carried similar dreams of their own arrivals in this crazy remarkable place. I can quite honestly say I've never experienced anything like it, and never could again. Because even if you walked a second time, entering Santiago could never feel like that again. Like pure electricity and joy and perfect relief. 

Later, after a long mass where they didn't swing the incense, we received our compostelas, the Church's official recognition of a completed camino that has remained the same for a thousand years. Turns out my Latin name is.... Robertam?

Mama had gotten us a gorgeous hotel just a few minutes walk from city center where we could rest and rejuvenate before a tapas and fireworks (benefit of arriving for the Saints Day celebration) night out with Sarah. 

Speaking of tapas, here's some pictures of what we ate:

This is Pulpo, the octopus that the region is famous for. 

Steak and cheesecake!

It was cold and a madhouse, so we watched the elaborate lightshow on Santiago TV at our hotel with Sarah. We had the best view of the fireworks from our window! 

One Day More

Sorry this is up so late! I wrote it the night before we got to Santiago!

(Sung to the tune of "One Day More" from Les Misèrables)

One Day More

Another day on the Camino

That never ending road to Santiago

Pilgrimage for 40 days

Ends at the tomb of Saint James

We're almost there

We've been walking now for so very long

So ready to sing our victory song

Can I lay down my poles at last 

And stop walking quite so fast?

We started our Way at St Jean

And now our time is almost gooooone

One more walk! One more 20 k! 

Ooooone Daaaaay Moooooore!

Rain or shine, it all ends tomorrow!!

The Last 100 km

"Can there really be that many more people?" Lauren asked me as we stomped along towards Sarria and the beginning of the last 100 km, the necessary distance to receive the Compostela certificate.

"I don't know, dude," I said, glancing skeptically at the horizon. Actually I had my suspicions and they were soon confirmed . 

There actually were that many more people. Like 10x as many. Some of them being driven between locations on tour busses to receive stamps and given the option to walk or not with teeny tiny packs, huge groups, and no understanding of what this means to the rest of us. You know, the actual pilgrims. Who are entering these last 100 km with another 600 or 700 already under our belts and the tan lines to prove it. 

So what does this mean for the practical modern pilgrim?

Mostly it means an end to the tranquility. Imagine you've been cruising down a fairly empty interstate, cruise control set at 75, easy breezy, just going along and then suddenly pow! You hit a huge crowd of cars. Not stopped exactly. Just not going as fast as you'd like to go and, in fact, have been going for a long time. Suddenly you have to disengage cruise control and weave around these other cars. It takes a lot more thought and energy than just cruising, right? It's frustrating. It makes it hard to notice the beautiful Galician scenary including sun dappled, shady forest paths and mists. Eucalyptus and little clear rivers. Like walking through a fairy tale world suddenly populated by every loud, irritating person you usually find cutting you in line at a ride in Disney World. 

Tourist pilgrim with Dolce and Gabanna designer backpack purse

How fast can a person walk without actually running?

Let me show you sometime. 

Monday we didn't have a guaranteed (reserved) bed in Portomarín, our stop. Which made the Camino a race. For 18 km we walked with one break, moving so fast we made it there at 11:10 and we're still 35th in line. It was very stressful and physically taxing, and we're only lucky that we've been conditioning for this for 4 weeks already. But Camino shouldn't be about running to your destination for fear of sleeping on the street. Miraculously (seriously,God's hands were all over this), Lauren and I have a guaranteed spot every night since, which gives us some degree of peace amidst this tourist-y chaos we've stumbled into right here at the end.

In two days, I will walk in Santiago. It is a baffling thought. We are so close!!! Are we ready? Yes! The idea of our victory at the end of this adventure is keeping us moving, and we are so excited to think of laying down our poles and knowing that we did it! And, honestly, so grateful for every step :)

The 100 km post mark! (Right at the end of a huge hill so I was red and sweaty and winded haha)

Church and food pics from the lovely, lakeside town of Portmarín:

Legitimate Italian pizza and homemade tiramisu!

Into Galicia

At the Cruz de Ferro above Foncebadon at dawn, where pilgrims leave a stone or prayer as a symbol of their journey

Manjarín, home to Hospitalero Tomas, a modern Knights Templar who helps serves pilgrims traveling the mountain pass on the day we reached the highest altitude of the entire Camino!

Cows. 

We are now in the final week of Camino! It's been a difficult week in a lot of ways, with long, hot, trying days as we went from Astorga to Villafranca. The last two days have been really beautiful though, with lots of mountain views as we move into the rainier, more hilly terrain of Galicia, the last region of our journey. Today we climbed up to the mountain village of O Cebreiro to stunning views. It was a very empowering walk! Tomorrow we're taking a detour to Samos, another monastery (hehehe I love monks so much) before we enter the last 100K to Santiago!

Me playing on the river at Molinaseca on the hot, buggy walk to ponferrada:

Knights Templar castle in beautiful Ponferrada:

Here's a great vegetarian pie I ate:

Saracen Castle ruins:

Delicious vegetarian meal at restful Las Herrarias:

And finally, up on the mountain top today!

And it rained today for the first time the whole trip since Roncesvalles, one month ago!

The Ways of the Days on the Way

In the past month (it's been one month as of yesterday!) Lauren and I have developed a pretty consistent routine, mostly thanks to Lauren--if it were me, laundry would never get done, meals would be forgotten, and general chaos would likely ensue from my more lackadaisical "it'll get done" attitude. But here's what we do more or less every day:

4:45 am: Lauren wakes up

5 am: Lauren wakes me up

We then slip out of the dorm with our pre-packed packs and go into whatever outside non-sleeping area is available and get ready. Put on the clothes we laid out, get our feet ready, sunscreen, small bite to eat, etc. 

5:50: we begin walking in the dark

6:30: the sun rises behind us 

Usually on a daily basis we walk approximately 20 km. sometimes less, often more. Our biggest day was 31 km, our smallest (in Lauren's tendonitis days) was 12. That's about 13 miles a day, with our goal being to arrive before the hottest part of the day--this works better some days than others. It's great to do half before 9:30 or 10.

7:00: having walked around 5 km, we stop at the first cafe for real breakfast, which in Spain is inevitably cafe con leche, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and some type of bread. Toast, croissants, whatever. It's bread. But always welcome! Usually highlight. We look at Brierley and plan in these moments too. I put my sunglasses on. Then we keep walking. 

10:30 am: time for elevensies! We stop for a sandwich somewhere, put on more sunscreen, check out the guidebook, etc.

Generally, we have a third break before we do the last 6 or 7 km where we drink coke or cerveza con limon (lemonade and beer which sounds weird but is secretly great). 

In between these breaks, what do we do? We walk. And walk and walk and walk and walk. We take water breaks in the shade. Thank God for a breeze or a good dirt path. We talk a lot. Look around at the scenery and comment on how beautiful and/or baked and barren it is. Say 'Buen Camino' to many passing pilgrims and pass others. Trip over our poles and rocks and feet. 

After we arrive at any given destination, there are a few things we must do and we have conceived of an order that is generally very effective:

Step 1: Shower

Step 2: Laundry

Step 3: market/lunch 

Step 4: nap

After we nap for 2 hours or so, we get up and have dinner, either something easy we got to fix at the Tienda or the Pilgrim's menu at the albergue, which is an overwhelming 3 courses that are usually way too much but sometimes the only option. After dinner we goof around, blog, pack up, go to bed around 10... Then wake up and do it all again!

Just a thing or two

A few little notes since we reluctantly left our luxury hotel (without paying...whoops. Good thing mama fixed it!) and walked out of León with our awesome, hilarious Aussie friend Sarah. 

That day we did 20 km through boring, featureless landscape to a teeny weeny random town called villa de Mazarife. The albergue there had a tiny, freezing, totally unfiltered pool that Sarah and I hopped in. Lauren was more intelligent and watched from the sidelines haha. And she poked my blister with a needle! That is true friendship.

The next day Lauren found her true home 15 km in at the Albergue Verde, a total hippy commune in Hospital de Orbegos 

with delicious veggie menu and hour long yoga where Michu the Spanish swami owner made you wiggle your toes and thank the universe. The food and atmosphere were amazing and lots of tea! The hippies made brownies for dessert but they were shockingly drug free. Go figure. 

The delicious pumpkin risotto

The Lauren in her natural habitat trying to blend in so I wouldn't make leave.

On the way into Astorga the next day, we stopped briefly at the next hippy locale, Davíd's food stand. He had everything--fruit, fresh juice, peanut butter, just that little touch of crazy that every camino hermit needs. Lots of flies, obviously. A woman who had stayed over in his rude hut... He was charming and odd and a lot of fun. Apparently Davíd lived in the big city until he realized all is vanity and ran into the hills. He has now served passing pilgrims from his stand for 6 years. 

We past through Astorga and saw the very weird Cathedral there as well as another Gaudi building--probably my favorite by him so far! The cathedral was a strange, small mishmash and we were hungry so I didn't give it much of a chance. Interesting columns, though. You can tell Astorga is trying to be vibrant and modern and is succeeding. 

Gaudi

Funny little church

Today we began in Murila de Rechivaldi (right? Isn't that what it was called? In Spanish that means the middle of nowhere outside Astorga with cute albergue and nothing to do). We walked up into the hills, relieved for mountain views and a little green at last! Passing through Rabanal, we made the difficult climb up to the mountain town of Foncebadón. We were very tired.

Ah how the days go! Grateful for health and sunshine and pretty views! Onwards!

I don't know about you...

But I turned 22 in León! The whole day was a pageant of people trying to make me feel special and loved, and every minute was a real, true joy that I know I'll remember the rest of my life.

      Lauren and I began the day at Churreria Paris, a total dive not far from our hotel with fairly excellent churros (served with sugar packets) and old Spanish men ordering shots with their coffees.

 From there, we took the quick habitual tour of the city's farmacia offerings for compression socks, bug spray, cold medicine. The essentials. Then to the pilgrim's office for new credentials, since we will definitely run out of room on our French ones before he end. On the way there we passed the Gaudi building in a neo-Gothic style. 

Next--the cathedral! 

My first impression of León Cathedral is that it is trying to be very French. It's shooting for High French gothic in its 3 part walls, huge windows, and height. It's has a slightly funny, compact look because it's not very long. Again, like in Burgos, it looks a little clunky, a little hesitant with the buttressing technology. Built in about 50 years, the whole thing has an architectural regularity that makes it in some aspects harmonious.the best thing is it's amazing collection of medieval stained glass, the 2nd best repository after Chartres (so said the audio tour). The windows were a marvel though the eschatological scheme was not nearly so complex as at Chartres. 

(They never look that great in pictures, do they?)

Weird things about it: it won't stand up. They've have some big problems keeping the thing up especially after trying to put a baroque dome over the crossing that nearly broke the nave. Though the audio guide assured me that the problems have been resolved since its removal and the reconstruction of part of the roof of the right transept, there were huge permanent steel scaffolding keeping the nave from crumbling. Also, the beautiful, carved wooden choir has been put in the middle of the nave with the most hideous Renaissance choir possibly in existence breaking up the church. It makes the whole space awkward. Interesting, though, right? I had a lot of fun with it. 

        When we left the church, we had pizza in the square and ran into a lot of pilgrim friends including Fabio and Ali and Corralife (sp? Norwegian name--hilarious man who fell in love and quit his camino to follow her to Madrid). Ali gave me band-aids and bubbles for my birthday!! Such a sweet and touching gift from a fellow pilgrim and fast friend! 

We saw Sarah our Australian friend and absolutely the only worthwhile thing that happened to us in that hell hole Hornillos, and nailed her down to go out with us for tapas later to celebrate my birthday and, as it happens, her 40th day of walking!

After a nice, luxurious siesta in our hotel room, Lauren and I made an expedition to Holy Cow gelateria where she treated me to really excellent birthday gelato! Then I popped over to the San Isodoro Panteon Museo to take a look at their good--though strangely arranged--collection of medieval treasures including a series of Romanesque frescoes that were like a manuscript on the ceiling. Amazing and not like anything else!

We had a great time going out for tapas with Sarah, later meeting Fabio and Ali. Drinks and great friends and a wonderful birthday!! When we got back, mama had surprised me with a bottle of birthday wine. It was too late to have much of it, so I filled one of my water bottles and took it for the next day! #truepilgrim Best wine of the trip by far and a birthday to remember.